Tag: matteo augello

A brief history of Italian fashion curation

To celebrate the completion of his PhD on Italian corporate museums, Dr Matteo Augello will present a lecture on the history of Italian fashion curation.

Since the 1950s, Italian textile and fashion companies have supported publications, conferences and exhibitions to promote scholarship and preserve fashion heritage. Over seven decades, they have increasingly undertaken a more active role and are now establishing their own institutions and associations.

After a brief history, the lecture will focus on the influence of the industry over curatorial policies, questioning whether corporate interests can co-exist with the social requirements of traditional museums. Underlying the whole presentation is one key dilemma: are corporate museums, actually, museums?

The event is free but booking is essential by Clicking on the Eventbrite link.

The lecture will be followed by a glass of wine.

Dressing the Self/Other

Dressing the Self/Other is a reflective piece by Matteo Augello that explores dress performance and re-enactment and their use as research tools and crucial elements in the teaching of fashion history. Augello is a PhD student at the Centre for Fashion Curation at London College of Fashion and a former freelance researcher for the V&A opera exhibition in 2017.  Based on a video clip of his performance-lecture on ’The Art of the Prima Donna’, He will start off this interdisciplinary conversation on the topic of dress and performance by discussing some of his work on dress in Italian Opera.

Visit the Crassh page for more information and booking.

Dressing the Self/Other flier advertising the event at the University of Cambridge 5.30pm - 7.30pm 27 November 2018. Text giving summary. Red header and footer.

Dressing the Self/Other, 5.30pm – 7.30pm 27 November 2018

Read more about Matteo Augello’s research How Italian fashion is collected, preserved and analysed: unfolding the relationship between scholarship and production in the establishment of fashion collections in Italy, 1995-2015.

More posts from Matteo Augello

The Art of the prima donna – part 2

I took part in the preliminary research for the exhibition Opera: Passion, Power & Politics four years ago at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. I was investigating early opera in seventeenth-century Venice and I was fascinated by a soprano, Anna Renzi, considered by many the first prima donna, as she was the first woman to sing opera for a living, she wasn’t a courtesan. Very little evidence of her life has survived and only one portrait from a book that was dedicated to her.

Anna-Renzi – c. 1600 after 1660

Although I stopped working at the V&A, I continued to investigate the history of prime donne and I spent three years buying all the books I could find as well as going to operas and recitals almost every week. I wanted to understand why these women are so fascinating and why they were (and some still are) so worshipped by audiences. As an avid theatre goer, I was also suffering the impossibility to experience the performances of past prima donnas: the only clues we have are written accounts from the audience and illustrations, and for a few of them surviving letters give a glimpse of their own thoughts and feelings

Giuditta Pasta, 1797-1865, one of four prima donnas I played in the performance-lecture

As a historian, I kept digging for evidence about prime donne to create profiles as complex as I could. As an opera-lover, I was eager to find any hints that could help me get a physical sense of their performances: how they moved, what they wore, how they talked and acted, how they interacted with the audience. Although we do have scores and libretti, some of which were written precisely for certain performers, every new recording is an interpretation that mirrors the intentions of the singer, the conductor and the producer, distancing me even more from past prime donne.

Introducing the performance-lecture in a black catsuit

Earlier this year, when the V&A was programming events in conjunction with the exhibition, I proposed to give a lecture on the history of prime donne that would also include performances, where I would be interpreting the singers myself. I had not a clear idea of what I was going to do; no one did in fact but my academic prowess was a guarantee that I would deliver effective research. My only certainty was that I wanted to become part of their history, to use my body as a channel for these prime donne to come back to life.

Maria-Callas, 1923-1977

I selected four prime donne and four arias and I started to rehearse lip syncing: somehow all my knowledge came together, all the observations – gained through years of attending theatre – on how singers move on stage and how their bodies have to be in specific positions to produce certain notes. My body was almost unconsciously adjusting itself to the role. Then I found an interview of Maria Callas where she says that movements are inscribed in the music, if one listens carefully, one will find all the information there. So that’s what I did: I never watched any video of performances of the selected arias and I only used the intuition of my body, my ears and, obviously, my research.

Francesca Cuzzoni, 1696 -1778

Costume played an essential role in the performance: I was adamant that I would use costume not as a form of drag but as a tool to trigger the audience imagination. When I ‘played’ the lecturer, I wore a black catsuit, on which I wore individual pieces of costume when performing each of the prime donne. For Maria Callas, the ‘costume’ was no more than a chignon, lipstick and a pearl necklace, yet it was extremely effective. I also used different lights for the lecture mode and performances.

Maria-Callas, 1923-1977

Giuditta Pasta, 1797-1865

I not only lip synced to arias associated with each prima donna, but I also enacted them: I wrote short monologues by joining researched facts with my personal understanding of the character of each singer. A combination of fiction and factual: imagination was the only way that I could fill the lacks in the surviving evidence and performing was the way through which I investigated my own imagination. I view this event as a total work of research, where textual and audio-visual sources are managed through physical knowledge.

‘Playing’ the lecturer

The theatre was full, more than 200 people attended, and the response was extremely positive: despite many enquired what the event was – whether a lecture or a performance – everyone after acknowledged the success of the format. The greatest, and most frequent compliment I received was that people learnt a lot and were also entertained. I think this is a very effective way of presenting research on a topic that is entirely performative: when the lecture takes on the same form as the topic, it appears to gain consistency and it becomes more accessible. The next step is to continue to work on this performance and turn it into a fully-fledged theatre show, as well as to apply this format to my other great passion, showgirls and popular music divas.

Find out more about the Art of the prima donna

Read more about Matteo’s research 

Matteo on Fashion Curation

The art of the prima donna

Opera lives through the music of composers and through the lyrics of librettists. Roles are interpreted by new singers every year. Sets and costumes are re-imagined, deconstructed and revived all around the world. But what about performances? How can old performances be revived? New singers will always focus on the role, never on a previous performer, as it is their duty to breath new life into operas written one, two, even four hundred years ago. A lecturer, instead, is entirely devoted to the story he tells. A lecturer uses his knowledge to present a narrative, and uses audio-visual records as evidence. And when there is no evidence, the lecturer becomes the channel for the past to enter the present. The art of the prima donna is a total work of research, a passionate re-enactment through the unity of sound, movement and drama. Created by Matteo Augello, PhD student at London College of Fashion, as part of his ongoing experimentation with performative tools in curation.

The art of the prima donna, V&A, Saturday 11 November 2017, 4pm. 

Read more about Matteo Augello on his research profile

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